The Southern hognosed snake, because it is seldom kept in captivity and little is known about its reproductive and feeding strategies, is a moderately difficult snake to keep in captivity. There do not appear to be any active breeding programs in the United States. In serious decline throughout its range, the Southern Hognosed Snake must be protected and export outside the U.S. prohibited.

Yet, there is much to learn about captive breeding strategies and professional organizations should be encouraged to pursue research to determine whether or not the Southern Hognosed Snake can be succcessfully maintained and bred in captivity.

BASIC REQUIREMENTS

Southern Hognosed snakes are found in temperate zones that range from a low of 20 degrees in winter to highs over 100 degrees Fahrenheit during the summer. Despite being adaptable to temperature and weather extremes Heterodon simus is in danger of extirpation throughout most of its range. It is no longer found in Alabama and is either threatened or rare in other southeastern states where it was once common.

Heterodon simus is relatively unknown to herpetoculturists who keep and breed the other more common forms of the western and eastern hognosed snakes. In fact, Malagasy and South American hognosed snakes are kept far more frequently than are the smallest of the American hognosed snakes. Of the Heterodon group, the Southern hognosed snake may be more challenging to maintain, breed and raise, much more so than its western cousins although less so than the Eastern hognosed snake. Therefore, due to its rapidly dwindling numbers and difficulty of care, I do not recommend this species be kept by the novice keeper. For the more experienced herpetoculturist, its basic requirements are similar to those of the Western hognosed snake.

ENCLOSURE

Virtually any enclosure, which is suitable for other colubrids, is suitable for Southern hognosed snakes. Enclosures such as those made by Neodesha, Vision or Cravenhouse, are suitable. While aquariums are suitable in size, the main problem with glass aquaria is the tendency for the heat gradient to cause cooler air to settle at the bottom of the cage while the warmer air escapes through the wire top. Glass tops may help reduce heat loss but also cause higher humidity levels and allow for poor ventilation.

One of the keys to providing a successful enclosure for southern hognosed snakes is the kind and depth of substrate. Southern hognosed snakes are natural burrowers and will be much more successful in captivity if provided with the proper type of substrate that will allow for burrowing. Suitable substrates include cypress mulch, dust-free pine shavings, and CareFresh bedding Due to their higher humidity requirements, my personal preference for Southern hognosed snakes is crushed and reconstituted coconut bedding. Products such as bed-a-beast hold moisture better and for longer periods than most other substrates. Substrates to be avoided include cedar and redwood shavings, bark or mulch, potting soil, and pet litter of any type; these substrates can cause the nares of the snake to become clogged or cause upper respiratory infections.

It is important to keep these substrates clean and dry to prevent bacterial outbreaks and mold and fungus growth to a minimum. In the case of CareFresh, this substrate can dehydrate snakes so it is important to provide plenty of clean fresh water at all times. This can be accomplished by providing a water dish within the enclosure, large enough for the snake to soak occasionally. Some snakes will not recognize standing water and must be either provided with a drip system or receive daily mistings. Ray Ashton has observed Southern hognosed snakes channeling water into their mouths through use of their rostrum.

Southern hognosed snakes (Heterodon simus) requires higher humidity due to the regional location and sandy pine forests they inhabit in the wild. However, they should be monitored for skin lesions and provided with a dry basking surface if difficulty with shedding (ecdysis) is observed.

A hide box is recommended although it may not be used if the substrate is suitable. I prefer an elongate log suitable for the snake to completely conceal itself. Like all snakes, hognosed snakes are thigmotactic and feel most comfortable when they are in contact with their environment. Therefore, a hidebox or a log which conceals and covers the snake, but which is not too large, is the most suitable for hognosed snakes.

TEMPERATURE

Temperature requirements for both the Southern hognosed snake may range from a daytime temperature of the mid 70’s to a nighttime low of the mid to high 60’s. A basking light in one area of the enclosure should be provided to permit the snake to warm itself at least to the mid 90’s. Although it has yet to be proven, colubrids may benefit from full spectrum (UVA – UVB) lighting. I provide full spectrum illumination in the enclosure based on natural photoperiods.

While some snakes are thigmothermal (require contact with warm surfaces) others absorb warmth from sunlight. To create a warm gradient within the enclosure, I provide an under-surface heat mat at night set on a timer; this permits the snakes to move onto or away from a warmer surface at night. Warm temperatures are important in maintaining optimal health by aiding in digestion, fighting disease, and facilitating growth and hormone development.

A word about heat rocks – don't use them! More fires and animal injuries occur from these types of heaters than any other product. Snakes lack sensitive nerve endings along their ventral surface and therefore are unable to detect high temperatures on surfaces. Since the heat radiates from a rock surface independent of the air and surrounding temperatures, snakes have difficulty recognizing heated surfaces that might cause injury. Instead, heat pads placed beneath an enclosure with more moderate temperatures will provide a safer environment.

PHOTOPERIOD

Hognosed snakes, like other animals, require regular day and night cyclical periods to function normally. While a day/night photoperiod of 12 and 12 can be provided with effective results, varying the daylight and dark periods to mimic nature provides a more realistic setting and may contribute to a more successful breeding program. Timers which turn lights on and off can be had for very little or, for more precise and more reliable models, quite a bit more.

Digital timers can also be built into a room to turn on and off lighting, heat pads, and misting systems. This type of system will allow for variable photoperiods during the course of the year. Prior to brumation, photoperiods should be adjusted to coincide with the natural light cycle.

HUMIDITY

Humidity levels for Southern hognosed snakes should be higher than for Western hognosed snakes. A humidity level of 40% to 50% is sufficient for Southern and Eastern hognosed snakes. Many of today's enclosures do not take into consideration proper air flow. Desired humidity levels are generally achieved through hand misting or by placing large water dishes in the enclosure. High humidity levels coupled with stale air or poor air circulation may result in respiratory infections or bacterial or fungal growth. Therefore, to achieve the proper humidity levels, a "humidity box" can be placed in the enclosure.

Similar to an egg laying box, the humidity box is nothing more than a plastic shoebox or Tupperware container half-filled with sphagnum moss with a hole cut in the top for the snake to access easily. The moss should be moistened periodically as it will dry as the water evaporates. The box will serve several purposes: first, it will permit the snake to move between a drier or more moist environment dependent on its needs; second, it provides a shed box for the snake to help with moisture absorption during ecdysis (shedding); and thirdly, it localizes the area in which bacteria or fungus may develop. The box should be cleaned whenever soiled or mold or fungus is observed growing.

FEEDING

Southern hognosed snakes exist almost exclusively on amphibians in the wild, primarily scaphiopus although lizards such as racerunners are also consumed. Although they may be trained to accept mice in captivity, neonates may require scented food at first. It is advisable to vary the diet of captive H. simusto include plethodontid salamanders, toads, and frogs.

Neonate Southern hognosed snakes may be fed one or two small toads or pinkie mice per week; this is sufficient to maintain a healthy weight. Many breeders and herpetoculturists overfeed young snakes in the hopes of having them reach a larger size more rapidly. This can result in obesity problems later on. It is better to feed snakes enough to keep their weight at a steady growth rather than have them grow too fast. By the same token, intentionally stunting animals by feeding them too little (as is done with some boas and pythons) can also cause serious physical damage.

Typically a neonate Southern hognosed snake can be started on one small toad or pinkie each week for the first six months and then 2 pinkies per week for the next 6 months. As the snake grows older and increases in size, you may increase the size of the food item. As an adult, a Southern hognosed snakes may be offered 2-3 small to medium sized adult mice every 7-10 days.

Snakes should always be fed food that, as a minimum, have been prekilled. The reason for this is multifold: snakes that do not immediately attack and eat a prey item may be subject to gnawing by the mouse resulting in serious injury. Also, a live mouse grabbed at midbody may be able to inflict a serious bite on the snake. Lastly, it is much more humane to feed prekilled mice to the snake.

Generally I would suggest feeding mice that have been prekilled, frozen and then thawed. Feeding thawed mice (and amphibians) also reduces the likelihood of parasite transmission. Ensure you COMPLETELY thaw the food item prior to feeding the snake; if you don’t, the partially thawed food item could cause severe gastric distress and kill the snake. Prior to feeding the food item to the snake, pinch the belly of the mouse or toad ensuring it is at least room temperature.

Using a pair of forceps, offer the snake the thawed food item (A note of caution here: NEVER thaw a mouse in a microwave oven) either in the enclosure or in a special container specifically used for this purpose. Remember to wash your hands prior to and after offering food; this will reduce the chance of a stupid feeding error (SFE). While there have been few instances of envenomation by hognosed snakes, reducing the risk of a feeding-related bite is safest.

When feeding neonates, pinkie mice may be scented with frog or toad scent. Generally captive born Southern hognosed snakes will not take unscented mice. Rubbing a pinkie mouse with toad paratoid gland mucous or toad urine will usually be enough to get the snake to feed. WARNING: only Bufonids or Ranids should be used; other frogs and toads (such as firebelly toads and dendrobatid frogs) may cause death or injury. I keep a pair of European Green Toads solely for the purpose of scenting.

If the young hognose refuses to eat toad or lizard, the pinkie can be split-brained; this smell sometimes entices reluctant snakes to feed. Occasionally young snakes can be placed in a small container with the food item in a dark quiet place and they will feed on their own.

You may also create frog or toad slurry to use as a scenting material for pinky mice. While this has been shown to be most effective with Eastern hognosed snakes, the procedure works well for any hognosed snake that refuses food. Take a couple of toads or frogs that have been prekilled and then frozen for two weeks to kill parasites, place them in a blender with a little water, and blend away! (Be sure to get your parent’s or spouse’s permission first – and don’t tell any houseguests). Pour the mixture into ice cube trays and freeze. Next time you feed your hognose, thaw out a cube, soak the pinky mouse in the mixture and then try to feed the snake. As a substitute, the mixture can also be poured into a water dish. This process can also be performed with lizards.

As a last resort, you may have to force-feed your charge until it begins feeding on its own. This can be a potentially dangerous maneuver and if you feel uncomfortable attempting to force feed the snake, have a qualified veterinarian perform the procedure.

Initially, a vitamin supplement such as Nutrical can be used to build strength and provide necessary nutrients. For a neonate, 5cc of Nutrical every two days is sufficient to maintain health. This can be supplemented with mouse legs and lizard (Anolis) legs coated with Nutrical to facilitate the feedings. Do not use metal tweezers or forceps to force the snake’s mouth open; this can result in severe damage to the snake’s mouth, glottis, or jaw. Instead, use a flat toothpick to gently pry open the young snake’s mouth, slowly insert the syringe (without the needle) approximately a third of the way down the throat of the snake, expelling the Nutrical into the snake’s stomach.

A pinkie pump, which liquefies pinkie mice, can also be used to introduce complete animals into a snake’s stomach.

Force-feeding adult snakes generally requires two people. Coating the food item in Nutrical will also facilitate the feeding procedure. Using a wooden nail file or Popsicle stick, gently pry the snake’s mouth open. Insert the food item, head first, into the snake’s mouth. The snake’s head will have to be held very carefully to prevent injury, while gently forcing the mouse farther down the snake’s throat. The snake may initiate a feeding response automatically. Otherwise, you may have to continue to apply slight pressure to the snake’s jaws while massaging the snake’s neck so the mouse proceeds down the snake’s throat. If you are unable to move the food item far enough down the throat, the snake may regurgitate the item and potentially risk injury.

Of course, all keepers know that there are some snakes that simply fail to thrive and never take food in captivity. In the wild, these snakes would simply wither and die. In captivity, you may be forced to force feed these snakes for many years. In the end, only you can decide if keeping the snake merits the risks, or if the risks outweigh the benefits.

BREEDING

Hognosed snakes reach sexual maturity at two years of age in captivity. At this point, a female can be introduced into a male’s enclosure for breeding. By introducing the female into the male’s enclosure, it will be easier for the male to follow the pheromones (sexually induced scent gland chemicals) and locate the female. Again, many snakes have bred successfully despite being kept together year round.

Wild caught snakes generally require two years to completely adapt to a captive environment. Although younger snakes will adapt more readily and more quickly, some wild caught adults may never adapt at all. The comfort level of the snakes is critical to successful captive propagation.

Southern hognosed snakes lay eggs from June through July and while some may double clutch, this appears to be a rather rare event. According to Degenhardt et al., hognosed snakes may lay anywhere from four to 23 eggs. Depending on whether or not you brumate your charges, your snakes may lay eggs at any time during the spring or summer.

Prior to the female laying her eggs, you should prepare a suitable nesting box with a vermiculite/water mix. A plastic shoebox half-filled with moist vermiculite, on a 1:1 ratio of water to vermiculite, measured by weight is most commonly used. To increase the likelihood the female will enter the box, cut a hole in the top of the box through which the female can enter and exit easily. Be careful not to leave any sharp edges that may result in cuts. Place the shoebox in the portion of the enclosure that has the most constant temperature, preferably away from the basking light. With any luck, the female will seek out her nesting site and lay eggs just after a pre-parturition shed.

INCUBATION

Once the eggs are laid the box should be placed in an incubator. Our “incubator” consists of a melamine cabinet with very strict moisture and temperature controls. A temperature range of 73 to 88 degrees Fahrenheit (23 –31 degrees Celsius) appears to be sufficient. Depending on the temperature, hognose eggs may hatch in a shorter or longer period of time.

There are many types of incubators available on the market, or you can manufacture your own. The HOVA-BATOR was originally designed to hatch chicken eggs but it can be modified to serve as an incubator for snake eggs. Most backyard breeders simply make their own incubators out of old refrigerators, coolers, cabinets, or aquaria. As long as there is little temperature or humidity variance, the eggs should do well.

Occasionally if eggs are not transferred soon enough or become desiccated (dried out) they may seem to cave in. Once the humidity levels are elevated the egg may regain its shape and hatch normally. Other eggs, due to mishandling, infertility, or rapid temperature changes may collapse, develop mold and turn yellowish. These eggs should be separated from viable eggs and discarded.

During the course of incubation, you may carefully examine the eggs, using a process known as “candling.” When candling eggs, be sure not to rotate the eggs because the embryo may become detached from the wall of the egg or the yolk may rupture or smother the embryo. To candle an egg, hold the egg with the thumb and forefinger of one hand while shining a flashlight from behind the egg with the other hand. If the egg is fertile, you should be able to see blood vessels developing within the yolk and the dark eye spot of the embryonic snake.

Check the eggs periodically to ensure they are not rotting or covered with fungus or mold. Because the shells are permeable and exchange moisture and oxygen vital to the survival of the embryo, no chemicals or toxic substances should be used on the eggs during development.

Typical incubation for Southern hognosed snakes is from 60 to 80 days depending on temperature and humidity. Cranston suggests that eggs kept at a constant temperature of 82 degrees Fahrenheit may hatch in as little as 54 days.

BRUMATION

It is generally agreed that most snakes must undergo a period of inactivity during the colder winter months to rebuild their strength and prepare for the upcoming mating season. Brumation is the period of inactivity snakes in northern temperate regions undergo prior to mating. While brumating, snakes experience limited activity and may not be completely unconscious.

While some keepers insist that snakes must be brumated for them to breed successfully, others have successfully bred hognosed snakes with no brumation whatsoever. In fact, it is unlikely Southern hognosed snakes from the more southern portions of its range brumate at all. If brumation does occur, this is due more to the drier conditions than temperature changes.

To brumate Southern hognosed snakes, feed them heavily a month ahead of time. This will prepare them for the two to three month period when they do not have access to food. After you observe the snake have defecated, do not feed them for another two weeks, this will allow them to completely clear their bowels. If the snakes are brumated with undigested food in their guts, the food will decay and cause death.

Brumating snakes at the appropriate temperature is extremely important. If kept too warm, bacteria and parasites in the snake’s system could remain active. Since the snake will have been placed in a state where its immune systems have been lowered, it may fall victim to disease or infection that they would normally be able to fight. If a snake is kept too cold, they may unable to recover from their state of torpor.

The suggested brumation temperature for North American hognosed snakes is between 50 and 55 degrees Fahrenheit. While some keepers suggest gradually dropping the temperature over several days, there is evidence to suggest that this may result in respiratory infections and an overall reduction in the immune system of the snake. Instead, once the snake’s digestive system has cleared, it can be placed into a container at the appropriate hibernating temperature.

A suitable container may include Styrofoam boxes, Tupperware containers or the snake’s normal enclosure. A substrate such as newspaper or CareFresh bedding should be placed in the “hibernaculum.” You should also provide a hide box and a water dish filled with fresh water. Snakes will seek water during their brumation period. Since you have already been altering the photoperiod (as discussed earlier) to coincide with the seasons, the snakes will be ready for full brumation.